GRAFTING AND SEED COLLECTING
TIPS
FOR CONIFERS ©
Dax Herbst, Illinois USA
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Information for Conifer and Deciduous
Grafting as well as Seed Collection dates for North America
and recommended under stock selections
(Notes taken from Bob
Finchams Grafting Video. You can also
visit his website for step-by-step photos detailing grafting procedures at www.coenosium.com) Bob
Fincham is worldly known in the conifer community and also sells his conifers through
Coenosium Gardens yearly catalog: Catalog
of Rare Plants For the Discriminating Person.)
Same
as for conifers with only a few exceptions: When
1/3 of a block of seedlings is showing signs of growth up ABOVE the entire
block is ready to graft. Scionwood
is taken the same way. Typically use wood
having at least 3 sets of buds on it. 2 is
quite possible
1 set of buds is pretty much youre kidding yourself Do
your cuts the same way and insert your scions into your understock just as you would do
for a conifer graft. Be sure your buds are
facing up (very important). Attach
your budding strip
LASTLY,
deciduous material does not need to be tented. The
fresh grafts are simply kept in the heated greenhouse uncovered or
(non-tented).
A
few more things to know:
*After
you bring your potted seedlings into the greenhouse it will take approximately 2-3 weeks
for them to show signs of growth at which time theyre ready to be grafted. *When
white root tips show at the bottom of any pot (Even if the plant isnt
actively growing above) it can be grafted. *A
graft can be done anywhere on your understock.
Typically weeping forms are done higher-up, which of course will provide you
with a taller plant to start with. Knowing
they can be grafted anywhere will provide you with the necessary information for doing
less-common grafts such as standards or
topiary grafts.
AFTERCARE
FOR YOUR CONIFER GRAFTS
Theyve
already been grafted and placed under poly in the greenhouse. There are numerous ways to tent a few
examples include: (1) simply
resting the poly on top of your understock (the grafts are below on the plant
and will not get damaged) or (2) you can build some sort of wooden frame that allows you
to drape the poly around your plants. A good
example of this would be to construct raised beds of sand about 6 inches high and to build
a frame above these beds so you can simply raise and lower the poly as needed. Also, Ill just mention is you have raised
beds
you can lean your grafts sideways so the scions are facing up
therefore
less preparation is needed to thin the branches of your understock.
Keep
them watered of course so they dont ever dry out (The poly tenting will raise the
humidity) When
the scions begin growing (if you did proper care out of 1000 grafted plants it is
possible for 1000 of them to knit) you need to remove the poly
and place them elsewhere in the greenhouse. After
the scions have exhibited decent growth you need to go in with a pair
of pruners and remove 1/3 of the new-growth on your understocks! This will once again open up the plant so more
light can get to the scion. Then when the weather warms up and is safe for the plants to be taken outdoors, then they can be potted up into 1-gallon containers and at this time the budding strips must be removed.
Leave
the understocks on for one-year
then remove them and allow for the scion to be the
only thing left growing. *Just
a note
The understocks can be removed at the time of potting into 1-gallon containers
but overall its best to leave them on for a year so the understock can
continue feeding the scion. If you
choose however to remove the understock at the time of potting..it does not mean it
will kill the plant. Some growers do
remove the understock at the time of potting up.
AFTER
CARE FOR DECIDUOUS MATERIAL As
soon as the scion begins growing all of the understock must be removed to
allow for the scion to grow on its own. This
is where a deciduous graft differs from a conifer graft. The
budding strip is removed at the time of potting up. Seed
Collection of Conifers (cone ripening dates)
Larix: All Larix are compatible as under stock Fall September-December (decidua) Old cones stay on
tree indefinitely Picea: All Picea are compatible as under stock Fall September-November (abies) ***under stock*** Fall
August-September (engelmannii) Fall
Mid-August (glauca) Fall
September (mariana) Fall
Mid-SeptemberEarly October (pungens) Abies:
All Abies are compatible for under stock Fall September-October (concolor)
Fall September-Mid-October (fraserii) Blue-green cones change to brown ***a second choice to nordmanniana as an under
stock***
Fall September-October (nordmanniana) ***under stock***
Fall September-early October (veitchii) Bluish-purple cones change to brown Pinus: Fall August-October (cembra)
Fall August-October (contorta var. latifolia)
Fall August-September (flexillis) Fall September (koraiensis) ***under stock option*** (5-needled Pines)
Fall October (mugo)
Fall September-November (nigra)
Fall September (parviflora)
Fall August-October (resinosa) ***under stock*** (3-needled Pines)
Fall August-September (strobus) ***under stock*** (5-needled Pines)
Fall September-October (sylvestris)
Fall September-November (virginiana) Chamaecyparis: September (nootkatensis, lawsoniana, thyoides) Mature nootkatensis cones are yellow-brown in color. Note: Chamaecyparis
nootkatensis is now known as: Xanthocyparis
nootkatensis. ***under stock*** Xanthocyparis
nootkatensis (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis) can be grafted onto either Juniperus x media
Hetzii or onto Thuja orientalis Biota. Both of which have a deep tap root and prevent
Wobbling. For hardiness reasons,
Juniperus x media Hetzii is the better of the two choices. Juniperus: August-September (second to third year) (communis). Plants need to be 20 years
old.
Mid-September-Mid December (scopulorum) persists 2-3 years. Plants need to be 10-20 years old. September-November
(virginiania). Plants need to be 10
years old. NOTE: All
junipers are compatible as rootstocks. Juniperus
x media Hetzii and Juniperus scopulorum are most commonly
used. Also, for most practical reasons, most all
junipers strike from cuttings. Tsuga:
September-October (Canadensis). Metasequoia
glyptostroboides: seed usually isnt
viable. Cones collected when the scales are
not opened must be pried open by hand. Cones
collected when the scales naturally begin opening will open within 1-2 weeks at room
temperature. No stratification is required. Seeds should be sown and mulched with fine sand
and begin germinating in 5 days. Seeds should
be sown in a greenhouse with high humidity. In
hot climates the seedlings should be shaded during the first growing season. Deciduous
Fagus: Fall October-November (usually mid-September) (sylvatica) Seed is chestnut-brown,
shining, thin-shelled nuts and drops after first frost 42 days of chilling followed by
warmer temps for 28 days (68 degrees is optimal). Seed
begins germinating at end of cold cycle. Conifers
that Strike from Cuttings (Root): Chamaecyparis
pisifera Chamaecyparis
obtusa Chamaecyparis
lawsoniana (some)
most are grafted onto C.l. understocks. Thuja
(all) Metasequoia
glyptostroboides Juniperus
(scopulorum cultivars can de somewhat difficult)
Under
stock Compatibility of Conifers Previously Not Mentioned: Cedrus: All are grafted onto Cedrus deodora
even the hardier forms such as Cedrus libani var. stenocoma or Cedrus libani Purdue
Hardy. Pinus: 2 and 3-needled
Pines. Use: Pinus contorta latifolia or Pinus
banksiana. Some field growers think the banksiana has a better root system. Ive heard of some growers using Pinus
strobus for 3-needled pines. 5-needled
Pines (bonsai). For all general
purposes use Pinus strobus. Pinus thunbergiana however works just as well and is TOLERANT
of salt. Being perfect for bonsai
or for plants exposed to salty conditions. Pinus
thunbergiana however is known to die out quicker than strobus. In cases of very old bonsai trees of Pinus
parviflora it has been learned that the thunbergiana grafted ones die earlier and break
much easier than those that were grafted onto strobus. Note: Dax Herbst, Illinois USA
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